Week 7
Wednesday 5 September 2007
Arrived back at the boat about 1.00 am and after a shuffle around of all the stuff we had loaded into the boat managed to fall into bed for a well needed sleep. Had a lazy day on the boat putting everything back where it had come from. It was a very hot day so even sunbathed for a while (at last!!!).
Thursday 6 September 2007
Another lazy day until a large passenger boat decided it needed to moor in the spot we were in and then it was all hands on deck to move the boat out of its way. Luckily they said once they had done their pickup they would not be back until after the weekend so we could stay there.
Friday 7 September 2007
Got up early to go on a cycle ride to the Fontainebleau Forest to see a 22 foot statue of a Cyclops. After about 2 hours of riding over rough terrain (on our 20 inch wheel, 6 geared, folding bikes!) we decided we had probably taken a wrong turning somewhere as the book seemed to indicated there were made up cycle paths. However, along the way cycled to the top of a steep hill which gave a lovely view over Fontainebleau and Samoir. Eventually arrived in a town called Barbizon and decided to buy some lunch …. But it was 1.00 pm and everything had just closed for lunch (1.00-3.00!!!). By now we knew we would not make it to the Cyclops and back before dark so cycled to the Gorges d’Apremont for great views over the valley. Back at the boat at large, very posh looking barge pulled in behind us but parked a very strange angle with the bow of the boat on the quayside and the stern out in the middle of the river! The boat was a hotel boat owned by an American couple but managed by an English couple, Phill and Hannah. They told us they parked the boat like that because they had had trouble before with people coming home from the nightclub in the next town at 3am and coming onto their boat and taking stuff – this made it much harder for them to climb aboard. The boat sleeps up to 8 people and they charge $45,000 US for a week! Later that evening there was a some great jazz from Chez Fernand, the restaurant on the quay – the lady had a wonderful voice and we sat on the front of the boat listening.
Saturday 8 September 2007
Sitting on the back of the boat having breakfast when Phill from the hotel boat very kindly gave us a bag of croissant and pastries left over from breakfast. Got the boat ready to move on and went to say goodbye to Phil and Hannah. They gave us some very good advice about where to go and where to avoid and some ideas of where we might be able to winter the boat. They lent us their Navicarte for the Loire section of the canal which we managed to get photocopied in town. A few people had told us the Loire canal was very pretty and worth considering as it had far fewer locks than the Burgundy canal. Set off from Samoir, it almost felt like leaving home we had spent so much time there, and headed for Saint Mammes. At this point the river splits in two and you either take the left fork towards the Burgundy region or the right fork towards the Loire region – we decided to take the Loire route! Entered our first automatic lock where a sensor on the riverbank automatically opens the lock gates. Once inside a lock-keeper came out to take our ropes – FAB – definitely a good decision to come this way! Just out of the lock, in a town called Moret Sur Loing, there was a barge moored on the river bank and an English guy (Eric) called out to say there was a mooring in from of them if we wanted to moor for the night, which we did. Were just setting off to find a supermarket when Tony from the barge came out to give us some directions but ended up giving us a lift as he had his car there too – very kind. He said they were off out to dinner later but if we were back in time we were to join them for a drink and he would show us around his barge. We got back about 6.45 pm and went aboard Elsie May – a beautiful barge which Tony and Vida had bought as a bare hull and had rebuilt and furnished in England and brought it across the channel. The barge had a full size washing machine and a leather sofa … pure luxury! We joined them for a Kir Royale to celebrate their 45th wedding anniversary which is on 15th September (they had intended to celebrate that night as there was a Michelin Star restaurant in town which they wanted to have dinner in but unfortunately there was a wedding party in so they were fully booked but they had found another restaurant for dinner). Tony, Vida and Eric headed out for dinner and we lit the Cobb and cooked a wonderful goat’s cheese pizza. About 9.00 we heard some very loud music playing so cleared away and decided to go in search of its origin. We arrived in the beautiful town of Moret Sur Loing where they was some sort of light festival going on with a marching band being followed by crowds of people carrying lanterns. We joined the parade and heard an English voice and got talking to Mary who was from Ireland. Her and husband, 4 children and a dog had sold up their business in Ireland and bought a Salon du Thé in the town which had opened only 2 weeks ago. As we rounded the next corner Mary pointed out their place – the most magnificent looking building with wooden paneled front and turrets – it looked like something from a fairytale. The parade went through the town, over the bring onto a green where there followed a spectacular fireworks display – what a great end to the evening.
Sunday 9 September 2007
Got up early to say goodbye to Tony, Vida and Eric as they were heading off early – they took us down the canal to the lock on their barge. Walked to Saint Mammes where there was a market but not much else. Headed back to Moret Sur Loing and went to say hi to Mary and Paul and have a look inside their Salon du Thé – it was just lovely – if anyone is ever in Moret Sur Loing do call in, it is right on the square near the Mayor’s office and called Café Racollet - we would highly recommended the cappuccino! Wandered through the town and found a museum telling you all about the making of Barley Sugar sweets which originated in this town – they had samples for you to try and they were delicious. Down along the river there were people kayaking down the weir which looked like fun. We then heard a band playing so followed the sound and found a band playing down on the riverbank and people were up dancing. Right in the centre of town, surprise, surprise, there was a Notre Dame church!
Monday 10 September 2007
Left Moret Sur Loing and headed for Nemours. The first lock was ok but when we arrived in the second lock there was no-one around so we assumed it was one you had to do yourself, so we did. Whilst we were in the lock Phill and Hannah from the hotel boat passed by and told us it was not a manual lock, the lock-keeper was at lunch! Unfortunately for us the lock-keeper arrived back from lunch early and caught us just as we were about to leave the lock – he was not impressed – luckily Phil explained what had happened as he spoke very good French – we felt a little guilty that they had had to become involved as they have to pass through this lock very week with their passengers – sorry guys! After an early lunch stop as the oil alarm on the engine kept going off – put some more oil in but this did not seem to make a difference, we sent of again. We arrived at the next lock just as a large barge was coming out – the canal was very narrow so we pulled over to the river bank. The barge came out very fast and as he went past us the force of the water he was displacing pulled the back of out boat out and he hit the outboard motor on the back of our boat – luckily there was no damage but it was pretty scary. Arrived in Nemours and moored in front of a barge on the riverbank. Went for a wander into town and when we came back the hotel boat had moored in front of us and between the two barges we looked like a tiny little pleasure boat you would hire in the park! Darryl took the engine apart to try and find out what the problem was – nothing obvious!
Tuesday 11 September 2007
Engine problem resolved so set off about 1.00 pm as the lock-keepers have lunch between n 12 and 1.00 every day. Pulled into the lock and waited, and waited, and waited. Darryl went to see if he could find the lock-keeper and found him mowing someone’s lawn – he had not seen us enter the lock as we are so small we could not be seen from where he was! Later, when we were in a lock an American lady came to chat to us – their friends own a hotel barge which they were staying on and they said we were the first sailing boat they had seen on the canal this summer. Moored up near a town called Chateau Landon and cycled into a town called Dorvine as one of the lock-keepers had told us a shop there called Bricomarche would sell camping gaz (we were getting a little concerned as we had not see it anywhere … and eventually our supply will run out). Luckily the shop did sell it and it appears that Bricomarche is a chain all across France (a bit like B&Q). Then cycled into the Chateau Landon and passed Phill from the hotel barge in the van on the way … such a small place France!! Chateau Landon had a beautiful castle up on the hill which looked like it was now and old folk’s home. Had a look round the town and then headed back before it got dark … but got lost twice! Eventually made our way back to the boat and drank the bottle of 84 cent bubbly we had bought in the supermarket early – very nice too! During the night Christine was awoken by something and when she turned on the light she found a spider in her bed – which she had squashed - Darryl got rid of the evidence but not much sleep followed for Christine!
Wednesday 12 September 2007
Happy 4th Birthday Oliver
Christine has been very tolerant of all the spiders living on the outside of the boat for the trip so far but unfortunately, due to the experience last night, she has now decided that all spiders must be evicted from the boat tout suite, even Esmeralda! Set off from Chateau Landon and decided to do one more lock before lunch in a little town so entered the lock about 11.55 only to find the lock-keeper had skipped off to lunch early so tied up in the lock and wandered into town. On the way saw a walnut tree so collected some walnuts. A lady, who had obviously seen us doing this, came out of her garden and said something but unfortunately we could not understand. She indicated for us to follow her and just down the road she showed us where there was a chestnut tree , so we collected some of them too! Bought a baguette and had lunch in the sunshine on the front of the boat in the lock. When the lock-keeper returned from lunch he looked a little surprised to see us sitting in the lock – he was a big man with long hair and a beard down to his stomach – we were surprised when we arrived at the next lock and he was there too!! – it seems some of the lock-keepers run 2 locks. Arrived in Montargis about 4.30pm and tied up on the riverbank. Went for a walk into town and bought some steak and had a lovely bbq on the Cobb.
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